# Anchoring  To  Brick  Veneer



## north star (Jun 5, 2018)

*& = & = &*

I seem to recall that there have been some discussions on
this Forum before, regarding anchoring to exterior brick
veneers.

I have a 20 ft. long, light gauge metal frame that is currently
attached to some exterior brick veneer, serving as an awning
over a Loading Dock.......This 20 ft. long light gauge metal is
attached by use of some [ approx. ] 3" long, shot pins only.

Part of the 20 ft. long metal frame has become detached
because of some high wind events, and needs to be re-attached.

What does the IBC say about attaching to exterior brick veneer,
and can this light gauge metal framing be re-attached in the
same manner, or do the fasteners to be used need to be attached
to the cmu's behind this brick veneer  [  i.e - by the use of toggle
nuts & bolts  ], or other ?

Thanks !


*& = & = &*


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## steveray (Jun 5, 2018)

ANCHORED MASONRY VENEER. Veneer secured with
approved mechanical fasteners to an approved backing.
This type of masonry veneer is generally supported
from below and anchored to the sheathing, studs or
other structural portion of the wall. Veneers provide
little, if any, strength to the wall and are, therefore,
considered to be nonstructural. Anchored masonry
veneer is unique in that it is usually supported from
below by a footing, lintels or shelf angles. Anchored
masonry veneer must not, however, support loads
other than its own dead loads, wind loads and seismic
loads resulting from the dead load of the wall.


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## north star (Jun 5, 2018)

*& ~ & ~ &*

Thanks ***steveray***  for your input !

Are there Code Sections, in the `12 or `15 IBC, that prohibit
other loads & attachments ?

*& ~ & ~ &*


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## chris kennedy (Jun 6, 2018)

What is behind the veneer?


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## JCraver (Jun 6, 2018)

north star said:


> *& ~ & ~ &*
> 
> Thanks ***steveray***  for your input !
> 
> ...




I think you can attach it to whatever the RDP tells you to attach it to.  1607.12.4 says awnings and canopies should be designed for "uniform live loads as well as for snow loads and wind loads" as specified elsewhere.  So if the archy figures out an attachment method that he'll put a stamp on, then roll with it.


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## George McGerd (Jun 6, 2018)

I would NEVER allow this type of connection to a brick veneer on one of my designs, I would under no circumstances ever stamp it and neither would my Structural Engineer.  Whoever designed / installed the original awning is lucky that the mechanical connections failed and it did not pull down a portion of the veneer with it.  This seems like a good opportunity to fix a problem before it gets worse.  My advice: Always tie this type element back to the building structure.


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## Sleepy (Jun 6, 2018)

I'm with GM and would never do that either.  Masonry veneer (both adhered veneer and anchored veneer) are governed by IBC chapter 14 as a wall covering, not as a structural item.  No way.


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## north star (Jun 6, 2018)

*& * &*

Thanks for all of the input !  

Behind the brick veneer, in this location, are cmu's......Not
sure if they are filled or not.......There is no RDP on this project.
It is a maintenance \ repair issue.........There will not be an
RDP.

I, and a colleague of mine, have been tasked to repair the
detached awning.....I mentioned to him; and others, that the
existing brick veneer cannot be used to support various other
loads beside the veneer itself, so I am looking for various Code
sections that will require the re-attachment to comply with.
Ch. 14 is a good starting point.

*& * &*


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## north star (Jun 6, 2018)

*& * & * &*

I [ may ] have located the Code section that is applicable to my OP.
See what you think.

From the _`12 IBC, Section 1405.8 - Slab Type Veneer:  "Slab type_
_veneer units not exceeding two inches ( 51mm ) in thickness shall be_
_anchored directly to masonry, concrete or stud construction"._

_*& * & * &*_


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## Pcinspector1 (Jun 6, 2018)

"That new avatar creeps me out man!" "Here's North star!"

I thought I came across a Simpson Strong Tie product for attaching to BV? Might check their catalog. I currently stopped an illegal deck install that was attaching to some old 1900 brick but will have to attach the roof to the wall somehow, it's in the "Man who draws" lap.


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## JCraver (Jun 6, 2018)

George and Sleepy - I didn't say it was a good idea or that I endorsed it, I just said that I don't _think_ the code specifically prohibits it for awnings/canopies.

I'm glad you would draw it / design it to attach to the structure.  So would 99.999999% of other design professionals.  But those other .000001% wouldn't necessarily be wrong if they didn't, at least according to the code.


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## JCraver (Jun 6, 2018)

NS - What kind of building is this, and how far out from the building does the awning come?  If it's an R-3 or a U, and you're less than 54 inches out, then the permit req's of the code don't apply and you can (theoretically) attach it however you want to  (2015 IBC - 105.2).


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## Mark K (Jun 6, 2018)

The reason that there is not a specific provision preventing such attachments is because those writing the code did not imagine somebody would be so stupid.  

You should ask the submitter to provide calculations showing that the brick veneer and the anchorages of the veneer can transmit the forces back to elements of the building that can resist the forces.  I do not believe that this can be justified.

I believe that such work should be designed by a design professional.


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## north star (Jun 6, 2018)

*& ~ &*

PC, ...glad you like the latest Avatar.....A friendly Inspector coming
to a jobsite near you, ...soon !

This awning is attached directly to the exterior brick veneer......It
comes out approx. 12-15 ft. away from the bldg.

There will be no RDP involved in this repair project !.......It is an
"In House" facility and repair project.

I visually inspected the rest of the attached awning and there are
those Shot Pins holding the light gauge metal framing against the
exterior wall......This end of the light gauge framing supports one
end of the light gauge metal roof panels, something akin to a "slightly
sloped, horizontal metal awning" over an Overhead Roll Up Door.
The bldg. is an existing Storage Warehouse......This warehouse has
the awning over the Loading Dock Area.

We will be composing a Code compliant solution without
an RDP.

*& ~ &*


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## chris kennedy (Jun 7, 2018)

Seems like a no-brainer. Tapcons long enough to anchor a min 1" into the CMU.


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## Pcinspector1 (Jun 7, 2018)

Maybe add some silicone sealant with those "Tapcon's!"


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## ADAguy (Jun 7, 2018)

The question poser is an M & O guy, no? Sort of explains his questions, duh!
12 - 15' cantilever supported by shot nails to veneer, logic alone knows it won't resist high wind and accumulated weight of heavy rain but most of you already know that. Is this a state without a building code or contractor's license? Remember Hammurrabi, you build it; it fails you replace it at your cost.


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## JPohling (Jun 7, 2018)

ADA,  I do not believe this is cantilevered.............it would have been on the ground already if that was the case


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## north star (Jun 7, 2018)

*& * & * &*

FWIW, ...the existing awning is perpendicular to the existing
brick veneer wall......The awning is attached to & supported
by the veneer on one end........The 12 - 15 ft. out from the
veneer there are some vertical metal posts for support on
that end.

I & a colleague of mine are representing the AHJ for this repair.

As it is right now, the use of Tapcons or metal type wall anchors
that expand with the tightening of the bolt in it are the most likely
choices.

Both myself & my colleague are surprised that the darned
awning has stayed in-place as long as it has.

This is some good discussion...  Thanks ya`ll !  

*& * & * &*


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## Francis Vineyard (Jun 7, 2018)

Depending on the adoption of the IEBC, except for "new" structural members and connections used for repairs "the work shall not make the building less conforming than it was before the repair was undertaken.


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## ADAguy (Jun 8, 2018)

Didn't mention posts initially but Tapcons and wall anchors (unless through into the CMU) don't cut it.
Check with an engineer.


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