# window and door flashing



## mn joe (Aug 22, 2013)

2006 IRC-section R703.8 Flashing  This section states "Approved corrosion resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in such a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the to the building structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier fo subsequent drainage."

I just did a housewrap inspection and the windows were flashed with tape only.  I would prefer to see actual metal or plastic additional flashing, but the manufacturer's instructions only mimic the code language and are not specific about materials to use.

My question is: Do you consider This to be properly flashed?  What about if it is 2 units mulled together with an additional piece of plastic covering the joint for 1 inch on each side of the joint?  These are vinyl windows.


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## globe trekker (Aug 22, 2013)

mn joe,

Is the tape your refer to, an approved type of tape to be used for flashing?

Here, we DO use the self adhering type of roll tape to flash the windows. Some of it does not

adhere very good, ..especially when the hot, humid conditions cause the tape to come off.

Also, ..if you have two separate units, they both need to be flashed under the plastic strip

covering their joining.

.


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## Uncle Bob (Aug 23, 2013)

Ok, I'm a bit bored so here goes.  (still can't make paragraphs).  I'll begin at the beginning.  2006 IRC, R102.1 (exerpt) *Where there is a conflict between a general requirement **(703.8 Flashing)** and a specific requirement* *(613.1 Exterior windows and glass doors.), the specific requirement shall be applicable. * You already have provided 703.8; so I will only quote 613.1 which states, "This section prescribes performance and construction requirements for exterior window systems installed in wall systems (don't you just love the use of the word systems; the writer must have gone to Harvard).  *Windows shall be installed and flashed in accordance with the manufacturer's written installation instructions.  Written installation instructions shall be provided by the manufacturer for each window.*   So, you must use the manufacturer's installation instruction where they may differ from 708.3; and they do with some manufacturers.  The instructions are required to be on each and every window.  The "approved" tape does not work and with changing weather conditions it will peel off and cause leaks; but that's not our call.  The 2009 IRC states that (exerpt) "Self-adhered membranes used as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711." and it don't work either.        Uncle Bob


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## Pcinspector1 (Aug 23, 2013)

Protecto wrap works pretty well IMO.

Pc1


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## KZQuixote (Sep 3, 2013)

mn joe said:
			
		

> 2006 IRC-section R703.8 Flashing  This section states "Approved corrosion resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in such a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the to the building structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier fo subsequent drainage."I just did a housewrap inspection and the windows were flashed with tape only.  I would prefer to see actual metal or plastic additional flashing, but the manufacturer's instructions only mimic the code language and are not specific about materials to use.
> 
> My question is: Do you consider This to be properly flashed?  What about if it is 2 units mulled together with an additional piece of plastic covering the joint for 1 inch on each side of the joint?  These are vinyl windows.


Hi Joe,

To be considered flashing the product need not be metal or hard plastic. It need only meet ASTM D-779. Pretty much all the mechanically attached and the self adhesive flashing products meet this standard.

If the joint you're talking about is the 1" of nailfin that is missing at the mull, a typical treatment would be to use a rigid head flashing to cover this area after sealing the mull with the appropriate sealant. That's how I'd do it myself. If the manufacturer's instructions don't specifically address the issue you may have difficulty convincing the contractor to invest the additional time and expense.

Hope this helps.

Bill


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