# Wall Bracing Question



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

Hello everyone,
Below is the plan that I drew for my addition. I have just received the comment from the plan reviewer that I need to show compliance with IRC 2015 Section R602.10 "Wall Bracing".
I was hoping to get some inputs from everyone on this issue as I am not totally familiar with this part of the code.
I would really appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Tina



https://imgur.com/a/WDAHZr2


----------



## north star (Jun 15, 2022)

*# ~ #*
*
tina1510,

Welcome to The Building Code Forum !   

Your plans should include some visual details and language as
how you plan to add wind bracing, as is required by Section R602.10
[  i.e.  -  sizes of the wall sheathing & fastener pattern, with the specific
types of nails or staples being used, etc.  ]*

*# ~ #*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

north star said:


> *# ~ #*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


Hi, thank you.
Could you please elaborate as this is my first time drawing the plan? I enjoy doing this for my house but did not anticipate such comment.
I thought the issue was the distance between my garage door is too narrow? From what I've got from Section R602.10, I am planning to show WSP method but I am not entirely sure about the technical items as you mentioned (length, distance between panels ect.)
Much appreciated your comment.
Tina.


----------



## redeyedfly (Jun 15, 2022)

I think it will be very difficult for anyone to describe the wall bracing requirements in message board posts.  The short answer is that the small sections of wall around your garage doors do very little to resist wind/seismic lateral loads on the structure.  Your plans need to show how the design is in compliance per north star's comment.  
I'm sure there are some resources you can google to learn how it works but I suggest you hire an engineer.  Even if you hired an architect, they would go to an engineer for this part of the design.


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 15, 2022)

"garage portal frame" will get you a lot on Google.  If this is your design and you are having it built by a contractor, the contractor may be able to help you.


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

bill1952 said:


> "garage portal frame" will get you a lot on Google.  If this is your design and you are having it built by a contractor, the contractor may be able to help you.


I have not been able to find a contractor yet. I have been looking at a lot of resources on Google and "Garage portal frame" comes up lots of time.
I guess my question is would this issued be resolved if I have 2 garage doors instead of 3 and using CS-WSP method? I am thinking maybe by doing so, I could have gain more space/length for the bracing panels. 
Please excuse my limited knowledge on this subject as I have just learned about it for a couple of hours.
Thanks,
Tina


----------



## steveray (Jun 15, 2022)

Simpson StrongTie has a great calculator on their website for amount of bracing and then you may just need to show where it is...Our former area rep from them does that now as a business. If you can send him your plans, he may do it for a few hundred dollars...Not sure what your wins and seismic are.....The only thing that might be complicated is the garage door wall....


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

steveray said:


> Simpson StrongTie has a great calculator on their website for amount of bracing and then you may just need to show where it is...Our former area rep from them does that now as a business. If you can send him your plans, he may do it for a few hundred dollars...Not sure what your wins and seismic are.....The only thing that might be complicated is the garage door wall....


Thank you for your comment.
Simpson Strongtie is very helpful. I received the result that 8'-0" length of wall bracing is required which I do not think I have enough... one more reason to eliminate 1 garage door I guess.


----------



## north star (Jun 15, 2022)

*( = = = )*

*tina1510,

I concur with **** redeyedfly  ****  in that a fully licensed & certified structural engineer*
*in your area should be consulted with first..........See what they offer as far as:  providing
you with a fully compliant design for your planned addition, ...a written guarantee
that their design WILL pass the plans review process and that you or your contractor
will receive a bldg. permit, ...a fully legible copy of paper plans; as well as, an electronic
copy........Also, if you do not have a good understanding of what is being discussed,
the structural engineer may want to charge you for their consultation time, much
like attorneys do.

Q1):  Have you looked at Table R602.10.4 ?..........It has some visual illustrations of some
of the bracing methods.

The wall sections between your garage doors are not the only consideration.........The
whole addition perimeter, and the wall openings will need to be addressed in the wall
bracing design.

( = = = )*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

north star said:


> *( = = = )*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


Thank you for your comment,
I am looking at this project as an opportunity for me to learn more about building construction so I wouldn't want to hire an engineer at first. I was hoping to get some inputs from everyone so I can dig deeper and have a better understanding about this matter.
I have looked at table R602.10.4 and some drawings. It seems like CS-WSP method is the most appropriate for me. I was able to determine that I need 8'-0" length of bracing wall which I do not have enough currently.
Do you see any other concerns with the perimeter?
Please advise,
Thanks,
Tina


----------



## jar546 (Jun 15, 2022)

Section 602.10 can be complicated and difficult to understand, even though it was expanded several cycles ago from 3 pages to 28 and broke it down into more digestible sections.  Most code inspectors need a class on wall bracing just to get a grasp on section 602.10 so it may be more difficult for you to get a solid answer here, especially since your drawing is so basic and lacks the details needed to show compliance.

For a design such as this where there are many factors at play, it is best that you hire a licensed architect or engineer familiar with wall bracing so they can draw a compliant design.  The design is a blueprint to how the structure is built, right now to how far headers extend beyond and opening.  Wall bracing is a bit more complicated but always a great subject for everyone to refresh their knowledge.  Thank you for posting your situation and bringing this forward for discussion.


----------



## redeyedfly (Jun 15, 2022)

tina1510 said:


> Thank you for your comment,
> I am looking at this project as an opportunity for me to learn more about building construction so I wouldn't want to hire an engineer at first. I was hoping to get some inputs from everyone so I can dig deeper and have a better understanding about this matter.
> I have looked at table R602.10.4 and some drawings. It seems like CS-WSP method is the most appropriate for me. I was able to determine that I need 8'-0" length of bracing wall which I do not have enough currently.
> Do you see any other concerns with the perimeter?
> ...


You will learn a lot working with a structural engineer.  They may charge you time for walking you through their analysis but most engineers love to talk about what they do and how their design works.  They just don't like to talk about anything else.    
it shouldn't be more than a couple thousand dollars to provide a complete structural design for your addition.


----------



## Beniah Naylor (Jun 15, 2022)

Also see this thread - 





						Sheathing VS Shear Wall
					

Entry level plans examiner here. Basic question I couldn't get a clear answer from google.  Difference between a shear wall and sheathing? Is the wall the framing itself supporting the sheathing? Thanks guys.



					www.thebuildingcodeforum.com
				




And consider watching the video(s) in the linked post.


----------



## steveray (Jun 15, 2022)

If you can get a 4' BWP every 20'...it is not that hard.....At least not where I live....Certainly not on a single story addition....


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

Thank you all for all the information. I am a bit overwhelmed. This is my first project and I am really tight on the budget so I decided not to hire an engineer. 


steveray said:


> If you can get a 4' BWP every 20'...it is not that hard.....At least not where I live....Certainly not on a single story addition....


Would CS-WSP method work for me if I eliminated one of the garage door?


----------



## mtlogcabin (Jun 15, 2022)

APA has a calculator that you can use






						Wall Bracing Calculator - APA – The Engineered Wood Association
					






					www.apawood.org


----------



## north star (Jun 15, 2022)

*( # # # )*

***steveray **,** in her submitted floor plan, the difficult areas
appear to be the wall sections between each garage door
opening, and possibly the interior wall at the front of each
garage bay.

At least for this `ol warhorse, ...the wall bracing section of
the IRC was complicated for me to understand, and I even took
"in person" classes with Simpson-Strongtie.

"Ay Carumba !"*

*( # # # )*


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 15, 2022)

lots of help but I believe two 4' sections - you have one so changing overhead door sizes/spacing/number would probably get you another section. That's the easiest in my mind.  Everything else costs more and is more finicky.  But I'm not a registered design professional, just engineering classes in grad school in 70s, 40+ years in design and construction, and 35 years active in code development - but mostly an overreaching diyer who has built a lot of additions and small structures.


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

Thank you all for your help. I have revised the plan per some of your recommendations and what I have learned so far.
Please take a look at image below and comment. Much appreciated.


https://imgur.com/a/O6JxKji


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 15, 2022)

In my opinion, the solves the wall bracing issue, with room to spare.

In the midst of building a detached garage myself, planing it for nearly a year, in and around foundation trenchs last two days, you might want 8' wide doors, and wider if a pick up is possibly in you future. An I often cartop a canoe, so happy to have 8' tall.

I'd also consider centering double door to storage between cars, though it has the disadvantage of not a straight shot from overhead door.


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

bill1952 said:


> In my opinion, the solves the wall bracing issue, with room to spare.
> 
> In the midst of building a detached garage myself, planing it for nearly a year, in and around foundation trenchs last two days, you might want 8' wide doors, and wider if a pick up is possibly in you future. An I often cartop a canoe, so happy to have 8' tall.
> 
> I'd also consider centering double door to storage between cars, though it has the disadvantage of not a straight shot from overhead door.


Thank you for your response. I am glad this solves the wall bracing issue. 
The garage doors I am showing is 9'-0" wide and 8'-0" tall. I hope this would be sufficient.


----------



## north star (Jun 15, 2022)

*( # # # )*

*tina1510,

The recommended wall bracing and the increased
dimensions of the wall sections between each garage bay
"may or may not" solve the wall bracing requirements.
Have you composed a list of the types & sizes of nails or
staples and their fastening pattern, so that you can
provide this info to the AHJ ?

Also, regarding the 9 ft. wide by 8 ft. tall garage bay
openings, from personal experience, ...are you sure
about these dimensions ?.......**.REASON:**  The vehicles
of today & tomorrow are getting larger and larger.
If this house were to ever be sold, "some" may be
willing to pay more for the larger sized openings.
Today's engineered lumber products will allow for
enhanced features to the built structure, while
complying with the structural & wind loading
requirements........  Just sayin'...*

*( # # # )*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

north star said:


> *( # # # )*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


North star,
First of all, please excuse my limited knowledge. What is “AHJ”? 
And I have not composed a list as you mentioned. My previous thought was that the contractor is responsible for construction means and methods. But to be sure, do you think I should put a general note like “contractor to comply with wall bracing required methods per IRC”?
Secondly, you made a very good point regards the garage doors. I have just purchased the house and am not planning to selll it. I hope my future husband will not have big vehicles.


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 15, 2022)

tina1510 said:


> Thank you for your response. I am glad this solves the wall bracing issue.
> The garage doors I am showing is 9'-0" wide and 8'-0" tall. I hope this would be sufficient.


Sorry. Hard to read dimensions with my eyes. Sounds good!


----------



## north star (Jun 15, 2022)

*( # # # )*

*tina1510,

AHJ means the "Authority Having Jurisdiction"........In this case
it is who will be reviewing your construction plans \ blueprints
and issuing the bldg. permit.

The wall bracing requirements of R602.10 also include a
fastening requirement to attach the exterior sheathing to the
studs [  i.e. - the connection criteria  ].........Table R602.10.4 for
the CS-WSP method, the spacing of the fasteners is listed in
the last column, and the types of fasteners permitted is listed in
the "next to last column", which specifies Exterior Sheathing
to comply with Table R602.3(3).

I am assuming that the 22304 number in your location
means Virginia..........With that I am looking in the 2018
Virginia Residential Code.*

*Personally I would not rely on the Contractor for means &
methods.........I would want every detail and requirement
listed clearly in a written, enforceable contract, along with
what happens if the contractor does not comply with
the requirements, ...who pays for what, ...how long will
the contractor have to comply, etc.

You ARE going to have a written contract for this project
aren't you ?

( # # # )*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 15, 2022)

north star said:


> *( # # # )*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


Hi,
I really appreciate your response. It helps a lot. I will try to incorporate these information into my drawings.
One more concern regarding the wall bracing. I am not sure what I have at the corner between the garage and the foyer is sufficient (2'-8" as shown)
May I have your input on this location?
Much appreciated!
Tina


----------



## north star (Jun 16, 2022)

*( # # # )*

*tina1510,

I am not sure about what you are asking in regard to the
corner wall section ..........It too will be continuously
sheathed and the appropriate type, size & quantities of
fasteners will be installed.

Respectfully, can you please elaborate ?*

*( # # # )*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 16, 2022)

north star said:


> *( # # # )*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


north star,
This highlighted area in the image below is my concern. I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it.


https://imgur.com/a/s3gbqSA


----------



## north star (Jun 16, 2022)

*( # # # )*

*tina1510,

Thanks for the update !

Since I am not the AHJ or actually present at your location, I
am not qualified to provide you with a specific Yes or No answer.*

*Q1):**  If you have all of the other braced wall lines "continuously
sheathed" & the connection criteria is met, can you go and have a
conversation with the AHJ Plans Examiner to ask about your
design ?*
*Q2):**  According to the `18 VRC, what is the minimum width of
wall bracing required at the location you have highlighted ?*

*If you are unsure, then I DO recommend a visit with the AHJ Plans
Examiner, and they should be able to provide you with specific
information on your project, and what is required by them.

I am only looking at your plans from afar.*

*( # # # )*


----------



## Mark K (Jun 16, 2022)

If you are having difficulty in understanding and complying with the plan checkers comments an engineer should be able to help you. The engineer will likely make use of the provisions in the IBC which provides more flexibility

I would like to clarify some confusion in a previous posting. While a licensed structural engineer is the gold standard, in most if not all states a licensed Civil Engineer can provide the engineering design of a residential building. It may be that in some states they do not separately license structural engineers. In states that do not license structural engineers separately civil engineers who practice structural engineering may refer to themselves as structural engineers.

Certification of engineers is provided by private organizations and is not required by government bodies. I am not convinced that engineers with certification are necessarily better than other engineers. What you want is an engineer with a good reputation. I would ask an architect, not a contractor, for a reference.

It was suggested that you get a written guarantee that you will get a building permit. While professional engineers take pride in their ability to help you get a permit there rarely may be situations beyond the control of the engineer that may not make this possible. In fact, if an engineer is willing to make a guarantee it suggests the engineer why is not very sophisticated since such guarantees are not compatible with the Errors and Omissions insurance that engineer typically carry.

While it is commendable to want to understand why things are required, trying to do so in this context is not likely to be productive. The IRC gives you a prescriptive solution that the building department will find acceptable but it does not explain why. The provisions in the IBC will give you more insight as to why certain things are required but to understand those provisions you will typically need to take some college level courses. Having said that your engineer should be wiling to help answer your questions.


----------



## Joe.B (Jun 16, 2022)

In my admittedly limited experience there is often the desire by homeowners to take on a "small" or "simple" projects because they either (or both) want to save money or learn from the experience. It would seem to the lay person that anybody can put ink on paper and submit plans for a permit, and the reality is that most people probably could do at least as good, or better, than what a lot of drafters submit to us for review. The Residential Code is intended to be a prescriptive code that would allow builders or drafters to design a set of plans that do not require an engineer. The reality is (as is evident by this thread) that the prescriptive measures are far from simple or easy to understand.

@tina1510 I think what I would take away from all of the really good responses on this thread is that you've done a great job so far and you should continue to do as much of this on your own as possible. In order to reach the finish line it might be really beneficial to enlist the help of someone who really understands this subject matter. They could be an engineer, architect, experienced builder/contractor, retired building official, etc... You probably don't need anybody else to take over the design of your plans, and you probably don't need an engineer to do a structural design and/or stamp your plans. 

What you could do is sit down with a professional and show them what you have, ask your questions, and get some really clear directions that are specific to your plan. If you can find an engineer who is willing to do this they would likely (hopefully) only charge you an hourly rate to consult with you on your design. You could walk away with clear directions of what to add to your plans that will both satisfy your plan review process, and provide clear direction to your builder once the permit is issued.

Any money you spend consulting with a professional will be well worth it in the big picture.


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 16, 2022)

I don't disagree with above but point out in today's economy, it is very difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project. I tried all in the county and the very few who returned calls politely said no thank you. It's unfortunate that help is rarely available at any price.


----------



## Joe.B (Jun 16, 2022)

bill1952 said:


> I don't disagree with above but point out in today's economy, it is very difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project. I tried all in the county and the very few who returned calls politely said no thank you. It's unfortunate that help is rarely available at any price.


Yup, I've been hearing that too. That's why I threw in "experienced builder/contractor, retired building official, etc..." as alternatives. But even then it's probably still difficult. I've had one homeowner so bound and determined to get this stuff that I thought they were going to pick up drafting as a profession, hoping so actually. No dice, by the time they got their permit they had zero interest in ever having anything to do with any of this, ever again. There are a couple of retired builders here who help out with stuff like this, but usually only for people they know.


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 16, 2022)

It so depends on the building department too.


----------



## Paul Sweet (Jun 17, 2022)

"I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it."

Make the entire section of wall from the corner to the door a braced panel.  A let-in brace might be the easiest way to do this.


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 17, 2022)

Thank you all for your advises. Much appreciated. I decided to go ahead and gave this another shot. 


Paul Sweet said:


> "I am not sure 2'-8" is sufficient to brace the wall since I have a big opening next to it."
> 
> Make the entire section of wall from the corner to the door a braced panel.  A let-in brace might be the easiest way to do this.


Paul Sweet,
Thank you for your recommendation. I revised the plan and indicated at the 2'-8" area to be CS-WSP.
Per your advise, should I change this area to let-in brace?


https://imgur.com/a/jgfu8rI


----------



## north star (Jun 17, 2022)

*( # # # )*

*tina1510,

"Let In Bracing" is another type of wall bracing that could be used,
in-place of the continuous sheathing method.........You could even
do both if there was a contractor who was experienced enough with
the "Let In Bracing" method to do it right.........You might use a Search
Engine to research the term "Let In Bracing" if you are not familiar
with it.

Again, ...I would recommend that you go and discuss your design with
the AHJ  ( i.e. - FREE discussion )........They will be the ones to review it
anyway.*

*Q1):**  Do you already have an experienced, trustworthy contractor in-mind
or selected ?**
*
*( # # # )*


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 17, 2022)

north star said:


> *( # # # )*
> 
> *tina1510,
> 
> ...


North Star,
I have not selected any contractor since I am still new in the area. I need to do some research on this matter. 

I revised my drawings and sent it to the reviewer this morning hoping he could provide inputs. 

At this 2’-8” area, do you think I could so CS-WSP method instead of let-in? I can use CS-WSP for the whole perimeter for consistency. 

Again, always appreciate your input. 

Tina.


----------



## north star (Jun 17, 2022)

*( # # # )*
*
tina1510,

Thank you for your response !..........At this point I would
stay with the CS-WSP method, because I too like consistency.

Wait to see what the Plans Reviewer comes back with and 
go from there.

Respectfully offered, ...because you are new to the area, I would
recommend that you get a notebook and start taking notes on
the various aspects of this project............Ask \ search for "GOOD"
contractors & take copious notes.........Please do not sign anything
until you thoroughly understand every aspect about what you are
signing............You can also come back on here and ask all the
questions that you want...........This Forum is **THE BEST** on the
internet, ...bar none !........There are architects, engineers, Building
Officials, Plans Examiners, Designers, Drafts people, and
Inspectors in all disciplines here.
*
*( # # # )*


----------



## Mark K (Jun 17, 2022)

Why is it "...difficult to find a registered design professional to "consult" on a owner/builder project"?  

Let in bracing can only work if the forces are low.  Since you will likely be applying sheathing, to at least the exterior walls, why not use the sheathing to give you more strength.


----------



## north star (Jun 17, 2022)

*( # # # )*



> *"  why not use the sheathing to give you more strength. "*


*Respectfully, because Let In Bracing is still an acceptable
method in lieu of the Continuous Sheathing method. 

( # # # )*


----------



## mtlogcabin (Jun 17, 2022)

tina1510
I did not catch where you are located in the country 
FYI let in bracing is not permitted in high seismic zones


----------



## tina1510 (Jun 17, 2022)

mtlogcabin said:


> tina1510
> I did not catch where you are located in the country
> FYI let in bracing is not permitted in high seismic zones


Hi mtlogcabin,
I am in Virginia


----------



## bill1952 (Jun 17, 2022)

tina1510 - you have the whole wall, not just the 32" - to get your required lateral bracing.


----------



## ICE (Jun 18, 2022)

bill1952 said:


> tina1510 - you have the whole wall, not just the 32" - to get your required lateral bracing.


And it would be simple to create a drag from one end to the other.


----------



## Paul Sweet (Jun 20, 2022)

My first thought was that the 10+ ft. section of wall between the foyer and door would be more than adequate, but it is over 10 ft. from the end of the wall.

My second thought was to make the entire section of wall between the upper left corner and the door to the foyer CS-WSP, but that would require the garage to be sheathed before the foyer was framed.  (some NoVa building officials can be very strict and literal in applying the code)

Let-in bracing is adequate for NoVa winds, and it is an A seismic zone.  The let-in bracing could be installed on the garage side of the wall to go at a 45 degree angle.

The garage will need 1/2" gypsum board to separate it from the foyer.  That would also be adequate bracing for NoVa.


----------



## ICE (Jun 20, 2022)

Paul Sweet said:


> it is an A seismic zone.


Until it is not.  Declaring seismic zones is hubris on display.


----------



## ADAguy (Jun 20, 2022)

You haven't mentioned cost? If not a concern you could install a full width moment frame to maximize your opening.


----------



## tina1510 (Jul 1, 2022)

All,
My plan has been approved finally. I wanted to say thank you for your responses. I have learned a lot from you guys and am glad that I found this forum.
It was a great experience to design, draw, and address issues for my own project. I am sure I will have a lot of other questions during construction and you guys will see me on here often.
Anyways, much appreciated.
-Tina


----------



## north star (Jul 1, 2022)

*# ~ # ~ #*

*tina1510, ...we are glad that we contributed to your project
plans being approved.

If you have benefitted from your visits here, may I also
encourage you to become a regular contributor to this
Forum ?..........It is **THE BEST** on the internet !........May I
also encourage you to become a "paid subscriber" and
become a Sawhorse !..........Your experience and skill sets
are needed on here !........You too can contribute to
assisting and educating the masses !    **
*
*# ~ # ~ #*


----------

