# Cut I-Joist Flange - Recommendations on Who Could Repair



## NLITP

Hello everyone.  I'm a new home owner and recently pulled up my upstairs bathtub due to a previous owner's faulty installation.  What I found was an i-joist flange cut 95% of the way through in 3 different places.  The first pic is an overhead view.  You can see the cut from above - a little over a quarter of the way down from the top of the plumber's box.  Though a little harder to see, the other 2 cuts are at either ends of the plumber's box.  The second photo is a side view of the flange to show the depth of the cut... really nice circular saw work.  

From my research, if this were to happen on a new construction site, someone from the construction company would contact the i-joist manufacturer to get a properly engineered remedy to the problem.  I searched for any legible text on the i-joist in search of the manufacturer, but found none.  I called my local city's "planning and development" department, but they didn't provide any help regarding who I can call to get this properly addressed (or at least told it is nothing to worry about).

Can anyone give me some advice on how I can have this properly addressed?  Thanks!


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## cda

Welcome......


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## cda

Not in the structural class

But a structural engineer ?

Is this a two story house??

If so is this on the second floor??

Once again not an engineer but looks like open the floor on both sides and than add support on both sides


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## JBI

The good news is that it is the compression side of the joist.

The bad news is that I-joists are not dimensional lumber and behave differently than 2 x10's

Consult with an engineer that has experience with these products. There may be an easy fix... not likely, but maybe.


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## tmurray

We keep records of the manufacturer/supplier. Typically, for minor notches I usually see a 8' 2x4 centered over the damaged area nailed 5 times on either side. For major notching we see an LVL sistered along the joist.

How old are the joists?


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## Francis Vineyard

Recommend to first contact the manufacturer for available Technical Service Bulletins; http://www.techsupport.weyerhaeuser.com/hc/en-us/articles/201758510-TJI-joists-with-top-flange-notches

Can search prefabricated engineered solutions (please note these are examples, not to be construed as promotions or product endorsement): http://www.metwoodstore.com/


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## Sifu

Happens all too often.  I require an engineered repair, can come from either the MFR, engineer of record or other structural engineer if there was no engineer to begin with.  Anyone can make the repair if they follow the design.


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## mark handler

http://www.woodbywy.com/document/tb-818/


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## ICE

Considering that it is a bathroom, the span is probably small.  It has been like that for how long?  The top chord is in compression and the slice hasn't opened up.  It is underneath a bathtub with no weight bearing on it.  Not a lot to worry about.


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## mtlogcabin

ICE said:
			
		

> Considering that it is a bathroom, the span is probably small.  It has been like that for how long?  The top chord is in compression and the slice hasn't opened up.  It is underneath a bathtub with no weight bearing on it.  Not a lot to worry about.


I find it hard to believe and almost shocked you said that. I agree with you 100%. I just did not expect that from you. Are you starting to melt in you later years?


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## JBI

Opening paragraph from mark handler's link...

TJI® Joist flanges should never be cut or notched; however, it is recognized that damage occurs from time-to-time. The tables in this

technical bulletin only apply to notches in the side of the top flange; however, it does not apply to conditions including notches

across the top of the flange, notches within 3 feet of an intermediate support (multiple/continuous span joist), notches in the

bottom flange, or multiple notches in a single joist. For any of the preceding notch conditions, see the three options below:



Not looking too good...


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## steveray

I just ran into that generic repair for the WH joists this last week, first I had heard of it...of course they did it all wrong, but it is nice to know there are some things that you can not send to an engineer...


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## ICE

Gosh I don't know what I was thinking.  Here's what you need to do.  Rip 2x #1 lumber to fit between the webs.  Place said 2x on both sides of the web spanning 6' past the damage in both directions.  Through bolt with 1/2" lags 8" on center staggered.  Then nail the shlt out of it with 16d commons.

Oh no! I did it again....I'm not an engineer....so first you need to pay an engineer....and the engineer probably won't say shlt....nope, the engineer will say lots of nails.


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## my250r11

I agree it is on the compression side, but for me any designed or engineered product has damage or cuts or notches outside the normal recommendations I will require an engineered fix to cover my ars...ops


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## MASSDRIVER

Pour glue in the crack and drive a shim in it.

Brent.


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## NLITP

Thanks for all the feedback!  I'm not sure if my joist is manufactured by Weyerhaeuser (unless they are the only manufacturer of i-joists), but it is worth a shot.  I'm getting in touch with their customer service to see if they can recommend someone to take a look at it.  I am by no means looking for a DIY fix, that's for sure.

Thanks again.


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## cda

NLITP said:
			
		

> Thanks for all the feedback!  I'm not sure if my joist is manufactured by Weyerhaeuser (unless they are the only manufacturer of i-joists), but it is worth a shot.  I'm getting in touch with their customer service to see if they can recommend someone to take a look at it.  I am by no means looking for a DIY fix, that's for sure.Thanks again.


Glad you got a few answers

Let us know the solution

It would be nice if you can help support the forum. It is a self funded forum

http://www.thebuildingcodeforum.com/forum/payments.php


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## ICE

NLITP said:
			
		

> Thanks for all the feedback!  I'm not sure if my joist is manufactured by Weyerhaeuser (unless they are the only manufacturer of i-joists), but it is worth a shot.  I'm getting in touch with their customer service to see if they can recommend someone to take a look at it.  I am by no means looking for a DIY fix, that's for sure.Thanks again.


You guys should know by now that it is too easy to scare the uninitiated.  Now some sales rep will tread water for a few weeks trying to tell this guy to let it go without saying let it go.


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## north star

*= + = + =*

NLITP,

Welcome to The Building Codes Forum !   

Some good suggestions & discussion has

been offered for your dilemna.

The image below is a Simpson-Strongtie,

Base Cap.........Part Number: CCOQ4-SDS2.5.










Since I am cheap myself,  ...I would be trying

to find something similar to the Base Cap,

or have something custom made to fit the

I-Joist flange width snugly........I would also

do what **MASSDRIVER**suggested, in

that I would find a high strength adhesive

that I could insert in to the cut.........Invert

the Base Cap, ...drill completely thru the

side of the flange itself,  so that I could

insert some high strength bolts thru it,

...add some oversized, high strength

washers and nuts, and then very carefully,

tighten the nuts onto the bolts.

I personally would not go to an engineer

for a recommended fix.



*+ = + = +*


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## Francis Vineyard

With all due respect to every ones expertise; it appears the picture shows the joist cut in at least three places; we are unaware if there are more damage has been done with the remainder of this DIY project.


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## ICE

Francis,

My expertise is having good BS.  At least that's what my wife tells me.

The story of the boy and his bathtub might have never been told had he not removed the tub.  In that case he would be none the wiser and just as happy as if the joist had not been cut.  Anything that he does to it now is within the confines of a bathroom and a small hole through the floor sheathing.  I suppose that he could rip out a big hole in the floor sheathing and install a joist next to the one that's been damaged but if he put the tub back and then stared at a neuralizer he wouldn't need any bandaids and all would be okay.

About the only advice I would give him at this point is to get a tetanus shot.


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## Pcinspector1

NLITP

Francis is telling you the correct way to remedy the issue in post #6. Mark has additional repair info. The MASSDRIVER & north star repair solutions could be a fix as well, but they are engineered joist which should have a repair remedy.

As pointed out you would not known the issue existed without first removing the tub. One think I noticed is there is no fire stop material blocking the plumbing hole cut-out unless you removed it for the photo's. We allow friction fit insulation to be stuffed in the plumbing hole as a fire block solution.


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## north star

*# ~ ~ #*





IMO, ...the link to the Metwood Building Products site;

that **Francis Vineyard** provided, is a good source.

I totally missed the 3 separate cuts !........Good catch

Francis !   ;-)



*# ~ ~ #*


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## cda

Cat said,,,,   First cut is the deepest


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## MASSDRIVER

By the way, I wasn't kidding. Compression side defects on small spans are a non issue. It can't roll because ply is nailed to it, and if you fill the gap it can't compress. I even got an engineer to by off on it multiple times on production stuff. It's just no big deal.

Brent.


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## Pcinspector1

MASSDRIVER said:
			
		

> By the way, I wasn't kidding. Compression side defects on small spans are a non issue. It can't roll because ply is nailed to it, and if you fill the gap it can't compress. I even got an engineer to by off on it multiple times on production stuff. It's just no big deal. Brent.


Done that before, seams to work just fine.


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