# House natural gas pipe



## cda (Jul 14, 2019)

Anyone know how and can calculate the pipe size I need????



So I have another plumbing company coming out to give an estimate.

I want it done right. I have had prices from $100 to $3000.

I have existing natural gas already.

Appears 3/4 inch line running from the meter through most of the attic. One story.

Currently running:
HVAC 75,000 BTU
Water heater 40,000 BTU

I need to either run a separate line for the gas range, or if luck extend what I have.

I want to add a gas range, maybe around 60,000 BTU.

The range will be the last appliance, about 80 feet from the meter.

Trying to figure out cubic feet of gas per hour

Size of pipe needed to the gas range

Does it need a separate  pipe run from the meter?

Thanks 


I do not know how much pressure is coming into the house. Will try to call the gas company, and see if I can get an answer.


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## north star (Jul 14, 2019)

** + * + **

So, at your existing gas meter you have steel piping entering
your house.....What size enters the house ?.........After the steel
piping enters the house, what size is it in the attic ?.......What
type is it in the attic  [  i.e. - steel piping, corrugated stainless
steel tubing, copper lines, plastic, other ?  ].

Recommend that you sketch out a gas supply line diagram of
all gas lines in your attic & their sizes........Also, apply their
lengths.........Next, have you gone online to look for Gas Piping
Calculators ?.........This will be much easier than looking through
the various Tables in the IRC or the IFGC........And "Yes, you
will need to know the pressure at your meter".

** + * + **


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## ICE (Jul 14, 2019)

If the pipe is extended the minimum size at the start would be 1".  If a new pipe is installed from the meter to a 60,000 BTU stove 80' away 1/2" would work.  One more foot in length and it will not work.  This is based on 1,100 BTU per cubic foot.  Your location may have a different value.


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## cda (Jul 14, 2019)

north star said:


> ** + * + **
> 
> So, at your existing gas meter you have steel piping entering
> your house.....What size enters the house ?.........After the steel
> ...




Steel

I think it is 3/4 run all the way

With 1/2 inch drops tees to the hvac and water heater,


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## cda (Jul 14, 2019)

ICE said:


> If the pipe is extended the minimum size at the start would be 1".  If a new pipe is installed from the meter to a 60,000 BTU stove 80' away 1/2" would work.  One more foot in length and it will not work.  This is based on 1,100 BTU per cubic foot.  Your location may have a different value.




That is my other problem I cannot ever determine pipe size

It looks 3/4,   I do know the drops are 1/2, because they are marked.

House built in the 70’s

Whatever is off the meter runs almost to with in 15- 20 feet of where the range would be.

I hope I can just extend and not have to do a separate run.


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## cda (Jul 14, 2019)

Od

Not sure how it translates to ID

That is why I r a fire inspector


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## cda (Jul 14, 2019)

Almost at the end of the run
1/2 tees to left for water heater 

Tees right for old gas dryer valve not in use.




Right before the tee shown above :::


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## HForester (Jul 15, 2019)

Those pipe sizes are 1" and 3/4", I do believe from my memory. Here's my check:

SCH 40 Bare & Black Standard Steel Pipe
*
Item              Size* *Outside Diameter*
SCH 40 *Pipe*-1/2   0.840 in
SCH 40 *Pipe*-3/4   1.050 in
SCH 40 *Pipe*-1       1.315 in


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## mtlogcabin (Jul 15, 2019)

cda said:


> Tees right for old gas dryer valve not in use.


So what BTU was the old gas dryer no longer in use?
I will bet it was at least 1/2 the BTU in size to the stove you want to install.


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

mtlogcabin said:


> So what BTU was the old gas dryer no longer in use?
> I will bet it was at least 1/2 the BTU in size to the stove you want to install.




Never had a gas dryer before. The pipe is there, just capped.

I looked at different stoves and they seem to average around 60000 btu 
I get that from adding all the burners,,,,   If that is the right way to do it ???


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

HForester said:


> Those pipe sizes are 1" and 3/4", I do believe from my memory. Here's my check:
> 
> SCH 40 Bare & Black Standard Steel Pipe
> *
> ...




Thanks


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## Pcinspector1 (Jul 15, 2019)

About the only place I see 1/2" gas piping used is on the dirt leg (sediment trap) or entering the furnace or appliance after being tee'd off of a larger branch line. 

The IFGC has an appendix-A that might be of help but may also confuse us more.


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## Pcinspector1 (Jul 15, 2019)

Also see IFGC Chapter 4, section 402.

cda, thanks for the question, it's an area that I frankly don't venture into, calculating gas pipe size. 

Wonder how many plumbers just do what they did on the last house and claim, "That's how we've always done it?"


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

Pcinspector1 said:


> Also see IFGC Chapter 4, section 402.
> 
> cda, thanks for the question, it's an area that I frankly don't venture into, calculating gas pipe size.
> 
> Wonder how many plumbers just do what they did on the last house and claim, "That's how we've always done it?"





That is what I am afraid of. 

I have not found a company to trust yet, except the $ 3000 one. And to maybe add just 20 ft of pipe, seems just a little high, but they did say they would calculate it.


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## ADAguy (Jul 15, 2019)

Have you spoken with your local gas company?
Checked the label on the new stove to verify MFG's requirements?


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

ADAguy said:


> Have you spoken with your local gas company?
> Checked the label on the new stove to verify MFG's requirements?



Going to call today

Most stove install instructions are vague 

Some have none, some say give 1/2 or 3/4 pipe,     You pick the size.


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## mtlogcabin (Jul 15, 2019)

Your system should already be sized for the gas dryer @ 35,000 BTU per the IFGC. Your new stove/oven will be 65,000 BTU per the IFGC.
 Post #7 picture I believe is a 3/4" line. If the tee is 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" and then reduced to the 1/2" line and cap You should be able to start at the 3/4" tee and run the line from there.
You need the following info from the gas company to properly size the line

Inlet Pressure 

Pressure Drop 

Specific Gravity


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

mtlogcabin said:


> Your system should already be sized for the gas dryer @ 35,000 BTU per the IFGC. Your new stove/oven will be 65,000 BTU per the IFGC.
> Post #7 picture I believe is a 3/4" line. If the tee is 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" and then reduced to the 1/2" line and cap You should be able to start at the 3/4" tee and run the line from there.
> You need the following info from the gas company to properly size the line
> 
> ...




Thanks,

Just got off the phone, they are supposed to have someone call me, and hopefully they have the answers to above.


Yes, my hope is add to the 3/4 and extend it.

They still want a lot of money for that. Will see what the next plumber quotes.

Have not had/ used an electric induction stove, but they do not look cool friendly.


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## ADAguy (Jul 15, 2019)

What ever floats your boat? Gourmet cook? Most resterants only use gas.


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

Neighbors meter, he has a pool, may have a heater ??







My meter::

Appears 175 cfh???

Maybe 5 psi??














Ok learning more than I want to know about natural gas piping


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## ADAguy (Jul 15, 2019)

You asked (smiling) save a dime, spend a dollar.


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## ICE (Jul 15, 2019)

For $3000 I’ll do it myself and calc twice.


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## cda (Jul 15, 2019)

ICE said:


> For $3000 I’ll do it myself and calc twice.




Where’s the forum discount???


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## cda (Jul 16, 2019)

Well plumber came by

I do have one inch feed into attic

Somewhere, more than likely at the first tee/ hvac, it must reduce to 3/4.

Good news 3/4 runs to about 20 feet of where the stove will be.

No calculations done and he was not sure about the capacity of the existing meter,,,

But felt just add onto the 3/4 and run 3/4 to the stove, and all should be good.

I guess should not have hvac/ water heater and all burners running at the same time, anyway.


Going to go to the shop a figure the dollar damage and call me.


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## cda (Jul 17, 2019)

T_social said:


> I do not have information about gas pipes or plumbing, but I already solved the same problem with a piping company R&Zplumbing, I think it would be useful for you.




Looking for one

One to trust to do it right/ professional 

One that will do leak test

One that does not price gouge 

Willing to and want to pay, just reasonable price.


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## north star (Jul 17, 2019)

*@ ~ @ ~ @*

When you're shopping for a reputable plumbing contractor,
*(1)* check for a current license, ...*(2)* you may want to ask
around in the fire dept. community, ...*(3)* ask for a current
insurance policy, ...*(4)* ask about their warranties, ...*(5)* ask
your homeowner's insurance agent, ...*(6)* before you sign any
agreement [  read - Contract  ], read it over carefully, ...*(7)*
any Contract should have the starting and completion date,
no open ended Contracts !

IMO, ...if you can successfully find a few, or even one, Plumbing
Contractor to provide you with all of this information, credentials,
and other documents, then you will have at least tried to find
a reputable contractor that will stand by their work.......They
ARE out there, ...you just have to find them !........Shop around
a lot !

*@ ~ @ ~ @*


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## ADAguy (Jul 18, 2019)

As they say, "buyer be wary".


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## cda (Jul 18, 2019)

Well I think I found a good one with a reasonable price!!!!!


Finally

Thanks for all the helpful info


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## Nearly-Complete (Jul 25, 2019)

cda said:


> I guess should not have hvac/ water heater and all burners running at the same time, anyway.


Summertime, come home from a day of work and shower while the wife cooks dinner. That’s everyday for four months of the year for me.


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## cda (Aug 5, 2019)

So I think I found a good plumber

Now besides extending the gas line,

I have to convert cabinets from cooktop to accommodate a freestanding range.

So being the diy who cannot cut a straight line, and don’t have the proper tools, I am going to try it anyway.

So my non plumbing question,,

I need to add cabinet panel sides, to enclose the cabinets.

Any suggestion on material to use???

It appears I can do zero clearance to the range, if the material can handle 200 degrees

Thanks


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## north star (Aug 5, 2019)

*& * &*

cda, ...you seem to be asking two different questions.
*(1)*  What type of material to install on the sides of
your existing cabinetry, and *(2)* what type of material
to use that will endure at least 200 degrees, hopefully
without incurring combustion to your wood cabinets.

Most Residential grade ovens have some type of
thermal insulating material that reduces the thermal
heat transference properties.

IMO, ...if your existing cabinets are wood & you are
concerned about heat transference from your oven,
either increase an air space between the oven and
your wood cabinets, or have some type of insulating
material between your stove and the cabinets, or
both........Similar to the requirements of having high
temperature equipment \ appliances \ fireplaces
and their proximity to wood framing.

*Layer 1* onto your cabinets:  A birch type wood, or
other, to "reasonably match" your existing cabinetry.
*Layer 2* on to the wood:  A layer or layers of Mineral Wool.
Doesn't support combustion.
*Layer 3* on to the Mineral Wool:  Stainless Steel, for
durability and easier maintenance & cleaning.

*& * &*


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## e hilton (Aug 6, 2019)

CD ... what was the final result on the gas pipe?


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## cda (Aug 6, 2019)

e hilton said:


> CD ... what was the final result on the gas pipe?



Tax title, install, materials, and PERMIT and leak test, $ 1200, plus seems like rebuttal company. for about 20 to 30 feet of pipe added.


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