# Stud Drilled From The Side



## zerosnones (Oct 2, 2020)

Hi everyone,

Hoping to get some guidance on what to do. I hired a plumber to come install a new washing machine box.
However, he went and drilled a whole section off of one of the studs in the wall in order to fit the box between the studs.

I did some research and found the document for International Residential Code on wall construction: https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018/chapter-6-wall-construction#IRC2018_Pt03_Ch06_SecR602.6

The code doesn't really talk about studs being cut this way. I assume it's really bad that it's cut this way and it's not up to code of course.
I'm worried about the now weakened structural safety. Does anyone know what should be or can be done to remedy this.

Thanks


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## cda (Oct 2, 2020)

Welcome

Not pretty

I am not into structural and you will get other replies

I am thinking add a piece of wood to non drilled side, maybe two feet above and below the cut

one long piece/ a sister stud


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## Mark K (Oct 2, 2020)

This is typical practice for electrical contractors and should not be tolerated.  

Treat the stud as if it was completely cut through.  The always safe solution is to install a  full size stud adjacent to the damaged stud connecting the two every 6 to 8 inches.

The problem with this solution is that you will need to tear out the sheathing on one side of the wall so you can install the new stud.

A potentially less disruptive  solution is to install a stud that extends above and below several feet on each side of the cut.  The problem is that there is no proscriptive solution as to what is enough nails.  When all said and done it may be easier to install the full height replacement stud.


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## e hilton (Oct 2, 2020)

Whats the situation on the left side?   Were the studs just too close together?


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## Paul Sweet (Oct 2, 2020)

It almost looks like the back of an intersecting partition on the right.  If so, the other 2 studs will pick up the load, and there shouldn't be a structural problem as long as there isn't a beam bearing directly over the butchered stud.


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## north star (Oct 2, 2020)

*# ~ # ~ #*

zerosnones,

Welcome to The Building Codes Forum !   

*Q):  *Are the studs that have been overcut, truly load bearing
studs, or just framed studs that are not load bearing ?
*REASON:*  If the overcut studs are not load bearing studs,
to increase some rigidity to the wood studs, you "could"
attach horizontally, a metal strap or a piece of metal plating
to just above the Washing Machine Drain Box, by using
metal screws to drill in to the front of the studs...…..Also,
you "might" could attached a metal strap or some metal
plating below the Washing Machine Box, "if" the metal
will not damage the drain piping...…….Simpson-Strongtie
makes some metal strapping that could be used......Some
of their metal strapping is approved to use when top plates
have been over drilled \ over notched......Refer to the
Simpson Strongtie web site and catalog for selection.




*# ~ # ~ #*


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## classicT (Oct 2, 2020)

I agree with Paul, looks like the stud has a strongback stud from an intersecting wall. 

The plumber did a hack job, no question there. But ultimately, I would not be too concerned. Are you sure if this is even a load bearing wall?


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## ADAguy (Oct 2, 2020)

2nd floor above or single story?


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## steveray (Oct 2, 2020)

Bearing or nonbearing? Stud shoe might work.....


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## Mark K (Oct 2, 2020)

The point is that the stud is damaged.  There is not a proscriptive code provision addressing this.

All these studs are bearing it is just a matter of degree.

While some of the fixes might work we are not in a position to know the details so either replace the  stud or have an engineer design a fix.  Some of  the fixes might work but how do you know unless you can evaluate the structural issues.  My sense is that the inspectors and probably most building officials on this forum are not licensed engineers.

While Simpson makes good products there straps will not necessarily solve all problems.


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## e hilton (Oct 2, 2020)

Did you see the romex that goes through the stud?   Now probably pinched by the new drain line.


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## zerosnones (Oct 2, 2020)

This is on the first floor of a 2-story house.

I studied the walls relative to other things some more, and I think that perpendicular stud is actually connecting to an exterior wall.
On the other side of the laundry room is the kitchen.

Exterior walls are always load bearing right? So does that mean the section from the damaged stud onwards is also load bearing?

Mark: When you said "sheathing", do you just mean the drywall in the laundry room needs to come out in order to install a new stud?

What kind of professionals do I even hire to fix this kind of thing?
A structure engineer, a carpenter?

Thanks



>


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## ICE (Oct 2, 2020)

It took him a long time make the mess.  I bet he’s hoping for a chainsaw in his Christmas stocking this year.

The sky is not falling.  Stick frame buildings are hundreds of repetitive members.  You can usually lose a few and carry on as if nothing happened.


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## cda (Oct 3, 2020)

zerosnones said:


> This is on the first floor of a 2-story house.
> 
> I studied the walls relative to other things some more, and I think that perpendicular stud is actually connecting to an exterior wall.
> On the other side of the laundry room is the kitchen.
> ...



There was a question if that was the only stud damaged

if it was my house I would just sister the stud

if you cannot do it, hire a carpenter


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## Mark K (Oct 3, 2020)

It has been suggested that "Stick frame buildings are hundreds of repetitive members. You can usually lose a few and carry on as if nothing happened."

While a loss of an individual stud will seldom result in a global failure  there are cases where this is not the case.  Unless you are trained as an engineer it is not always clear when to get worried.  When there are several in a small area I start to get very concerned.  Remember we are not talking about hundreds of studs but the framing in the impacted area so the  studs on the other side of the building are not relevant.

While a damaged stud may not cause global failure under gravity loads it may create problems in high winds and it may lead to a soft wall causing problems with interior finishes and or cabinets.

If you are operating in the context of the IRC the assumption is that the studs are full size and only certain types of notches or holes are allowed.  There is no prescriptive rule in the IRC that tells you how to install a partial height stud to fix the problem.  Thus the damaged stud is  a code violation.


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## tmurray (Oct 5, 2020)

It's probably fine, but as other have mentioned, I would just sister this stud by adding on to the other side to make sure, but even this stud will need a notch cut to allow the electrical wiring to remain in place.


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## e hilton (Oct 5, 2020)

_Stick frame buildings are hundreds of repetitive members. You can usually lose a few and carry on as if nothing happened._
So the plumber is ok cutting out a couple of floor joists ...


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## ICE (Oct 5, 2020)

e hilton said:


> _Stick frame buildings are hundreds of repetitive members. You can usually lose a few and carry on as if nothing happened._
> So the plumber is ok cutting out a couple of floor joists ...


What's the span?


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## steveray (Oct 7, 2020)

All about prescriptive code vs. "what will stay up"....I have seen a car take out half a center bearing wall in a house and nothing fell down.....I wouldn't leave it like that, but it stayed that way for a month or so....


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## ADAguy (Oct 7, 2020)

Define "sister", full or partial height, both sides or one only?


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## Robert (Oct 7, 2020)

If it were mine, I'd get an idea of vertical load in #/ft from the roof and floor above, times 16" for stud spacing, and there is the load you want to accommodate with a new partial height spliced stud. A palm nailer and 16d nails are worth about 100# each in shear.


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